Most Americans visit Sankeien Garden within a month or two of arriving in Japan but it took me two years and three months to get there. Procrastination means serendipity this time for I am positive I would not have appreciated the experience half as much without Reiko as my guide.
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You would think by now I would know better than to attach American meanings to Japanese concepts. Don't I spend half my waking hours explaining to parents of toddlers that the Anpanman Museum is a playground, toy store, bakery, and just about everything else imaginable other than a museum? Yet I toodled off to Yokohama expecting to spend a pleasant autumn afternoon strolling through a traditional garden and found myself instead in a Japanese version of Henry Ford's Greenfield Village. Sort of.
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Substitute Sankei Hara for Henry Ford and the silk industry for automobiles and you have a general idea of the impetus behind this 'garden' which opened to the public in 1906. Preserving historic structures in a natural setting of waterfalls, babbling brooks, and peaceful ponds was Sankei's mission.
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Only one of the buildings is open to the public but that alone is worth the trip. This Edo period home of a wealthy farmer was built in the
gasshozukuri style, meaning it has a steep roof and audience room. All the pictures I took inside the farmhouse are too blurry to post -- apparently I was shaking with glee at the prospect of clambering up a ladder-like staircase to check out the attic where silkworms conducted the family business -- so you'll just have to come see for yourself.
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The nearest train station to Sankeien Garden is the same station (Negishi) Amy, Cathy, and I used when we found the house Craig lived in when he was a little boy but Reiko took me there on a different route, one that involved four trains rather than two plus shortcuts through two shopping arcades and a stroll down a narrow street teeming with restaurants, stores, and people.
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We passed at least five bakeries on Reiko's route before I stopped counting. I could easily have spent 20 minutes in each of them but, alas, I had to rush home to dole out Halloween treats. You have not heard the last of those bakeries.
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