"And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you."--
Friedrich Nietzsche
Kanmangafuchi Abyss, formed by an eruption of nearby Mount Nantai, offers a pleasant riverside walking trail with nice scenery near central Nikko.
Kanmangafuchi is also known for its row of about 70 stone statues of Jizo, the Bodhisattva who cares for the deceased, especially infants. This group of statues goes by many names, including
Bake Jizo (Ghost Jizo),
Narabi Jizo (Jizo in a line) or
Hyaku Jizo (100 Jizo). The story behind the last name is that about thirty of the statues were washed away by a flood and never recovered.
Mineko says we are supposed to pose with the Jizo who most resembles our husband.
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| Too somber |
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| Hat angle too jaunty |
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| Ring around the collar? Not MY husband |
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| Too ancient, believe it or not |
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| The pained expression looks slightly familiar |
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| "I'm melting," cried the Wicked Jizo of the West |
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| The Winner! |
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| Cab driver with Mineko |
We eschewed the bus today in favor of a taxi because we had lots of ground to cover before catching a late afternoon train back to Yokosuka via Tokyo.
My recent experiences with cab drivers in Japan have me thinking this is a great career option for history majors who, like me, favor captive audiences. Our Nikko driver was a jolly fellow who tipped us off that some of those thirty missing Jizo statues could be found at a little-known shrine downriver from the abyss. He took us there and I counted ten more Jizo before the cemetery distracted me.
What a great way to start the day! Lovely autumn foliage, water cascading down a gorge, umpteen Jizo, and a quiet cemetery. If we never make it to the famous shrine, I'll still feel this trip was a success.
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