In Search of Narcissus in Kamakura

Six stalwart Explorers hiked up, down, and across Kamakura last week in search of narcissus, following the three-hour route recommended in The Flower Lover’s Guide to Tokyo.

Our first adventure in the Year of the Rabbit began at Meigetsu-in, the Buddhist temple in Kita-Kamakura where we saw all those fabulous hydrangeas last June. This time we saw narcissus – a huge relief for the hike organizers – and several whimsical rabbit statues but it was the Buddha statue that captured our hearts.

Then it was uphill all the way for the next 90 minutes or so. Excelsior! Someone was glad she’d thought to bring that walking stick her husband used to climb Mt. Fuji even though it meant trudging all the way back to the train station to retrieve it from where she’d, chuckle, forgotten it next to a vending machine. That stick sure came in handy when the steep trail narrowed and she had to balance herself on the edge of a ravine to let a clutch of nimble elderly Japanese pass. Hiking is a lot like golfing for her. Just exchange whiffs for huffs.

Near the top of the trail we spotted a pair of porta-potties. From the outside they looked like their American counterparts but let’s see how they compare inside.

Sniff, sniff. Gosh, they don’t smell like any American porta-potty I’ve ever had the misfortune to visit. The broom and cleaning supplies in the corner are a nice touch.


Judy, Sheryl holding Kayden, Ishii, and Victoria at summit

Parts of the descent were even steeper than the ascent but Stickwoman generously doled out caramels to all the Japanese congregated on the summit and then they descended ahead of her to break her fall.

Our hike ended at Zuisen-ji where we explored the temple garden laid out in 1327. This was the first time we spotted any narcissus since leaving Meigetsu-in but what amazed us most was that the maple trees had not yet shed their stunning foliage.

Maple leaf falling at Zuisen-ji, January 5, 2011

Between New Year’s Eve and today I have now visited the requisite three temples and shrines. With such an auspicious beginning, I have high hopes for the Year of the Rabbit.