The Fujiwara Clan and Kofukuji Temple

The town mascot, a pudgy little guy sporting deer antlers, greeted us at the Kintetsu station. We skipped off in search of temples, shrines, and cell phone charms to add to our burgeoning collection. One of us was on the lookout for a restaurant. The other was panning the horizon for deer.

Banners lining the streets reminded us that we were visiting Nara during its 1300th anniversary. I'm sure there's an interesting explanation for that dragon motif but my computer's search engine has decided I'm Japanese so you'll just have to let your imagination lead you to your own conclusion(s).

Our first stop was Kofukuji Temple, established by the Fujiwara clan in 710, the same year Nara became Japan's first permanent capital.

The Fujiwara family is rather interesting. According to Dr. T, the family descended from a man named Chin who came from China bearing all sorts of knowledge, seeds, and Buddhism. Wikipedia says Emperor Tenjin bestowed the name on the Nakatomi family shortly after 645 to express appreciation for Kamatari Nakatomi's role in enacting major reforms.

However they got their name, the Fujiwaras thrived as the power behind the throne for centuries. They did this by marrying off their daughters to members of the imperial family and then getting themselves named regents for underage emperors. Michinaga Fujiwara (966-1027) was the father of six empresses or imperial consorts, the grandfather of three emperors, and the grandfather of seven more imperial consorts. It's not hard to imagine Michinaga dancing a little jig every time the midwife announced, "It's a girl!"

Kofukuji's five-story pagoda is the second tallest pagoda in Japan. The pagoda has burned down five times since it was first built in 730. The current pagoda was erected in 1426, about half a century before Columbus 'discovered' America, and is an exact replica of the original.

During the 74 years the capital remained in Nara, Japan's arts, crafts, religion, and literature were born, mainly through importation from China. The Chinese influence in this octagonal building is as appealing to me as Dr. T's tale of Chin, the Chinese emigrant.

The only thing resembling a deer we've seen so far is that pudgy mascot in the train station. Knock on antlers.